Diving Lover's Cove, Catalina

Curious Garibaldis were all throughout the kelp forests.

Early fall beach days

About two weeks ago, my lovely Lumberjack took flight off the roof of my roommate's car after a six hour session at Blackies. I was devastated to say the least. Now it is time to get another long board, and I had no second thoughts about going straight to Almond to grab an order form and start thinking/doodling what my next log will be. 

Useful Art

Alone and together, my girlfriend and I love to collect shells, driftwood, or any oddity that washes up on the beach and catches our eye. In the past, our backpacks and towels became bags to tote around our findings and while this worked fine, any belongings that happened to occupy the bags prior to the shells showing up would become entrenched in sand and moisture. To save our belongings (and have more room for collections) we thought that having a dedicated shore finding bag was in order. After we each had our hand at painting one side of the same canvas bag, this is what we had as our new beach findings bag.

                      

                                   Her side                                  //                              My side

Mist.

Into the fog. San Onofre, June 2011.

Be here or be square.

Telephoto lens test

I must admit, it's quite convenient as a surfer to have a father who can use a camera proficiently. Case in point: after getting a new telephoto lens, he was equally as stoked to shoot with it as I was to surf and see the images. We both agreed the lens performed well. Click on the images to expand them.

Waterproof housing tested and approved!

Walking in.

Brian Bent.

Looking back.

Looking north to the point.

Fin.

The Lumberjack got salty this morning. More photos to come later today of the surfing that ensued...

From the archives

I've been spending as much time as I can muster up organizing photos and media on my laptop. I feel like in the last year I've been on the move so much that all of my photos have piled up and are taking up too much much needed hard drive space. I've got so many duplicate files to dig through. But while doing all of this, I keep unearthing photos I never gave a second glance.

Sano, summer 2009

Nature

We watch, and we imitate.

Out to sea

Do what you got to do to wait out the lulls.

Alaia Test

Took the alaia out early this morning at Sano. The waves were damn near nonexisent. Not what my dad and I wanted to see. Sad to say but no waves were ridden today. Hoping for swell soon.

Accidents happen

Over exposed and burnt film. It's what happens when you play with a Diana.

I'm a junkie

Along with color I’m addicted to contrast. Here’s a pretty good example of my addiction in action. I’ve come to terms with it, and I don’t want help.

I ditched work for this

Needless to say, the ocean doesn't always cooperate with my (or anyone's really) plans.

Old man and the sea

For the week I spent surfing and seeing family in Florida I would generally dawn patrol on this particular stretch of beach, and would come across this same old man every morning. He would be there fishing before I was and would stay longer than I would. I was astounded at this man's dedication to the sea. I never got the chance to talk to him, but it seems like he's been doing this same routine for years. All I could think of is how I can only hope to be that passionate about what I love doing when I'm his age.

Worlds Apart

While I was watching the last breath of light fade, someone on the other side of the world was watching dawn break. It’s a perpetual: at every second of everyday there is both a sunrise and sunset somewhere in the world. This second happened to be mine.